Photo Essay: Eritrea (continued)

Eritrea is a tiny piece of land the size of Pennsylvania in the Horn of Africa. Colonized by Britain and Italy and later absorbed by Ethiopia, Eritrea waged a 30-year war for independence from Ethiopia. In 1991, Eritrea won autonomy, and in 1993, the people elected Isaias Afwerki, the man who led them to victory, as president.

But peace was short-lived. In 1998, war erupted again in what is now the bloodiest conflict on the planet, one that both sides say they don't want and neither side can explain. 19-year old Aynom Tesamicheal stands watch at the front lines on the border.

In the battle last March, more people died in three days than in the entire Kosovo conflict. Both Ethiopia and Eritrea have their own versions of the battle, their own body counts. But, in fighting for freedom, Eritrea has learned the value of spin.

Now while Ethiopia refuses to grant international press access to the frontline, Eritrea offers guided tours. Fighters in the trenches are accustomed to journalists. They know what the foreign photographers are looking for, and they aim to please. Their tactics have paid off.

"Genet and Alganesh were featured in Paris Match,'' Mekonnen says of two female fighters stationed at Tserona, in a voice tinged with pride.

These women aren't just pretty faces. Although during the lulls in action they're cooking and washing clothes, in the heat of battle, they're in the trenches dodging bullets with the men. At Home: Gabriela, a young Eritrean woman, stands at her doorway.

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